Comme des Garçons Series 10: Clash
Is that fallen leaves crackling underfoot or bubblewrap? Comme des Garçons Series 10: Clash is a madcap trilogy of surreal olfactory collages. Radish Vetiver, Celluloid Galbanum and Chlorophyll Gardenia. Available at Dover Street Market.
As a child I watched my VHS of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (the 1971 version thank you) so many times I wore it out. The same later happened with Rocky Horror but that’s for another time. Along with all the other kids sat on brown sofas in brown living rooms up and down the country, the bestest most eye-widening bit was The Chocolate Room – the scene where Gene Wilder sings ‘Pure Imagination’ whist the kids are let loose on cakey toadstools, mammoth tree-gown jelly babies and football sized bon-bons. The song ends with Wilder sipping something syrupy from a daffodil teacup, a cup that he proceeds to eat with an ASMR satisfying crunch. That moment is the smell of these perfumes from Comme des Garçons.
It makes sense – isn’t Rei Kawakubo essentially Willy Wonka? That makes artistic director for Comme des Garçons’ fragrance Christian Astuguevieille oompa-loompa-in-chief. And I mean that with the utmost respect and love, because this man is a real creative hero. For Series 10 Astuguevieille wanted to collide raw materials that would never normally meet, and he challenged three perfumers to clash something beautiful.
Chlorophyll Gardenia by Caroline Dumur contains cosmofruit, gardenia, spearmint oil, pepper pink, Black pepper oil, Madacascar LMR, galbanum oil, Pea accord and musk. Imagine a very fresh, very new take on the traditional Gardenia. The scent gives you such a surprise in how glowingly green it is… Nana goes neon.
Celluloid Galbanum by Domitille Michalo-Bertier includes lemon oil, galbanum heart, jasmine, cashmeran, dry amber and musk. Synthetic and organic smushed together. Long time CGD Parfums fans will love the plastic-ness of this one.
Radish Vetiver by Nathalie Cetto is made up of essence of enhanced vetiver, radish, Cypriol and Guaiac wood. Imagine a plastic lamp, that’s been embossed to look like wood… Oh and instead of a glass lightbulb there’s a fist sized glowing radish.
Bonkers, glamorous, gorgeous. And each of them 100% wearable and extremely moreish. Hold your breath, Make a wish, Count to three.