Beauty Papers

Stéphane Marais talks exclusively to Beauty Papers backstage at Jean Paul Gaultier Couture show Fall/Winter 2017/18 in Paris

Beauty Papers: What was the inspiration behind the look at this season’s show for Jean Paul Gaultier Couture in Paris? 

Stéphane Marais: Working with Jean Paul Gaultier you always have to be ready to experiment with everything. There were several ideas and he combines them all together. The references went from windstorm to India. That’s the beauty of Jean Paul, it’s about diversity and he can mix anything. The India references were about gold and the windstorm represented ice. It was about contrast. 

BP: And your approach to the look? 

SM: The ice look for the girls was to create a colder look using cooler tones and using texture with shine, a little flush on the cheeks and colour on the lips representing a palette on the models like they have been in the elements. The Indian look was kohl on the eyes with a mix of colour, using gold texture. The contrast played with the idea of cool to warm. 

For the finale we used a gold liquid that I splashed onto the eyes to create tears. It was spontaneous. You have nothing to loose. I prepare textures but it was at the end where I created this and the results were a surprise. Theres a freedom in working like this and I think this spontaneity shows on the runway. The models just go with it and it feels very alive. Had I prepared this pre the finale I feel I would have lost the immediacy. 

Photography by Claire Brand
Beauty by Stéphane Marais
Hair by Odile Gilbert

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