Out of this world skincare invented on Harley Street, using space travel research. This is serious stuff. Beauty Papers talk to Dr Yannis Alexandrides for The Beauty of Vanity Now Podcast, and gets under 111’s skin.
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Dr Yannis Alexandrides is a plastic surgeon and founder of 111 Harley St. Karl Plewka interviews Dr Yannis for our podcast, where he speaks candidly about what drives him, his perceptions of vanity, ageing and views on the future of beauty.

The 111SKIN range was launched in 2012 incorporating the scientific thinking, techniques and skincare research Dr Yannis had been developing in the first decade working at 111 Harley St.

“It’s a side affect of my practice as a surgeon. In my early days I was looking for a product that would help my patients heal quicker, and better after surgery. Especially after facelifts. One of the main problems we have is that patients don’t have enough time to recover after surgery. Anything you can do to accelerate healing is important. At that point I was using different brands and different ideas, that I was only modestly happy with. Eventually I had the good luck to meet two scientists who helped me develop my first product that was the healing serum.”

A product still used at the 111 clinic, the healing serum is the innovation at the heart of 111SKIN. Initially given to patients in tiny pots, to help with their post-procedure healing, it had them coming back for more and more. “That’s what started it really, and the Y Theorum is the evolution of the healing serum to a product that can be used day to day.”

I think Y Theorem Repair Serum is a bit of a potted miracle. I saw immediate results the morning after my first application. It plumps, it brightens and it heals. Some really rich, nourishing serums and moisturisers feel like they just sit on top of the skin, but mine literally drank up Y Theorem. Although I have been using it more at night, it can also be applied in the morning (a day or night cream can be used on top of the serum.) I’ve actually been carrying it round with me and forcing it on the foreheads of friends and colleagues at meetings and lunches (I have pretty bad table manners) and the reaction has been unanimously evangelical. The serum improves antioxidant levels, creates the best environment for collagen and elastin production, acts as an anti-inflammatory, brightens, combats uneven skin tone and blemishes, stimulates healing and nourishes the skin. It’s expensive but it’s amazing. Due to some heavy gold hoop abuse my earlobes were in a sorry state and Y Theorem has restored them to something a little less out of an early David Cronenberg film.

One of the key actives in Y Theorem is the patented formula, that Dr Yannis describes as the cornerstone of his products. “It’s called NAC Y2 and it’s a complex of ingredients that contain products that have strong antioxidants, one of them helps the body create Glutathione which is the master antioxidant – the most important antioxidant in our skin, which protects us from any damage from the sun, pollution, stress, and helps reduce aging of the skin.”

To develop the NAC Y2 formula, Dr Yannis worked with space travel research, incorporating ingredients used in extreme space conditions (where ageing is accelerated at warp speed.) “With space travel, changes of the skin are just the tip of the iceberg. There are a lot of changes the body undergoes, for instance you get osteoporosis, heart problems. This is why a lot of medical new ideas come from research scientists do in space. The two scientists who helped me develop the product used to work in space wellbeing. They were responsible for the wellbeing of astronauts in the Soviet program: from the diet, to the supplements and the skin. Space can be a very harsh environment for the skin, as you do not have the filtering protection from the atmosphere – so you get a lot of ultraviolet and cosmic radiation.”

The newest developments from 111SKIN are the ‘Clarity’ range, focusing on re-surfacing and reviving blemished skin. The products all have an antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory Rosemary Hydrolat base that calms irritated skin, and a combination of Lactic Acid, Tartaric Acid and Multifruit Acid Enzymes offer grit-free exfoliation. For use at night the Clinical Exfoliator is a fantastic leave-on gel, which remains effective whilst being suitable for the most sensitive skin. In the interest of full disclosure the Clinical Exfoliator has a slightly shocking smell (quite tangy) but see it as a welcome signal that is doing you good (unlike the usual signifiers that an exfoliator is “working” – scalding pain and a ruddy face.)

111SKIN is about “medical grade ingredients that will make a difference in the skin.” Dr Yannis has managed to bottle his passion and expertise, creative products full of active ingredients, innovation and real solutions. They are a bit of a dear do, but all of the products I have used and shared have had real (and fast) results… and it’s cheaper than a trip to Harley Street.

Photography David Oldham
Model Jena Goldsack
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